FIRST FEAST
Magistra Rosemounde of Mercia (copyright Micaela Burnham, 2012)
Introduction:
This class is intended to help the novice cook learn the basics for developing menus, scheduling the cooking process, preparing for cooking (called “mis-en-place” or “everything in its place”), and scheduling your process of cooking so that everything comes out on time at the right temperature. The hand-out (at the end of the article) contains eight recipes sized to serve eight people and a schedule that will have all the dishes come out at the same time. This will give you the tools to prepare a period style meal for eight people in your home. It is always best to start small and get comfortable with what you are doing before you tackle a multi-course feast for 200 at an event. I also strongly recommend that those interested in feast preparation work with the cooks doing feasts. Observing how the experts do it can be a tremendous help to learn what to do, and sometimes what not to do.
Developing Menus:
Period menus were very different than how we eat today. For one, all of the surviving menus were for wealthy nobles and Royalty. In the SCA, we are assumed to have access to the court, which means we are either noble, rich, or a friend of the King—or all of the above, but we do not eat for as long, nor do we have as many heavy dishes and wines as they did in period. An extant French royal menu of the 15th century had seven courses. (Fêtes Gourmandes p. 32, Micaela Burnham, trans.)
First Course
White hypocras (spiced white wine) with toasted bread
Second Course
Large chicken pies and hams of wild boar accompanied with seven different sauces
Third Course
Large plates of unique roasts of game meats like pheasants, partridge, rabbits, pigeons, bittern, herons, bustard, grayling goose, swans, woodcocks, birds of the river, plus other birds, kids and red deer accompanied by seven other sorts of sauces.
Fourth Course
Birds baked in pastry and a large quantity of other types of sauces
Fifth Course
Tarts, individual cream tarts, fried oranges
Sixth Course
Red hypocras with wafers and rolled wafers of other sorts
Seventh Course
Subtleties of large lions, red deer and many other beasts and birds made with sugar; a picture of the heraldic arms of the King of Hungary (the Royal guest at this banquet) and his lords that are present (presumably also done in sugar plate)
As you can see from this menu, it is far more elaborate that anything we are likely to do in the SCA. SCA feasts are usually three to four courses with multiple dishes per course, often with sauces. You will notice from the period menu that neither vegetables nor bread are mentioned, although those were certainly served with every meal, including feasts. All extant cookbooks have recipes for vegetable dishes, some of which are quite elaborate. Manchet, the round white loaves of the upper classes appears in every depiction of feasts from period sources. Also, trencher bread would have been present. Noble households had special pages to cut the flat loaves of trencher bread into two flat pieces, which were then placed on top of the plates on the table. Salads and other vegetable dishes, prepared from whatever was seasonal, would also have accompanied the feast, but these dishes were considered “ordinary,” and as a result were rarely mentioned in menus. Even in this menu you can see that the meal starts with wine and appetizers and ends with desserts and presentations dishes, not unlike the order in the modern world.
When planning your own menu, there are several things to keep in mind. Variety is important. You do not want to have a lot of the same sort of dishes, but you also do not want to have a particular ingredient or flavor that appears in a large number of the dishes. This can be a challenge in some cultures where every dish might contain cinnamon (French) or rose water (Middle-Eastern). You can compensate for this by having that ingredient on the side or in a sauce rather than in the dishes themselves. You also want a variety of textures and colors. And be sure than you include bread and vegetable dishes in your menus.
You also want to take into account the complexity of the dishes, how long they will take to prepare, and how long they will need to cook. Timing is the key to having everything come out when it is supposed to. Including a lot of dishes that are fussy and have to be done at the last minute can be a recipe for disaster. Include some dishes that can be made in advance or that need to be made in advance like pickled relishes and pickled vegetables. Pastry dough can be made a day in advance since it should be chilled before you roll it out. Most large meat dishes such as roasts of beef, pork, and venison, or whole chickens, can be made early in the day. Cook them until they are almost, but not quite to temperature, then remove them from the heat, and wrap them in foil. Then pack them into a clean dry ice chest, cover them with towels, close the lid, and do not touch them again until you are ready to serve. Your meats will be properly cooked, moist and juicy.
I am a big believer in making things from scratch, and cooking seasonal foods whenever possible. There is no reason to buy frozen pastry dough, which is expensive and tastes like cardboard when it is very easy to make pastry, particularly if you have access to a large food processor or stand mixer. Pastry dough will keep chilled for at least a week, and it can be frozen, although I do not recommend this as it can cause some separation of the fat and flour. Bread generally freezes well, although trencher breads may be the exception. Since they have to be cut through the middle into flat discs, and they are of coarser stuff that most other breads, freezing can cause fracturing when you attempt to cut them. However, it is supposed to age for a few days anyway, so you can make it 3-4 days in advance of your feast. When you buy things that are pre-made or in cans, they have had preservatives added and lack freshness. Frozen vegetables are the exception since virtually all of these are now frozen in the field when picked unless you buy “medleys,” which I do not recommend any way. Seasonal foods are less expensive as well. Don’t be afraid of sauces. Generally sauces can be made ahead, and they add tremendous amounts of flavor. In period, most meats were served plain, but with a variety of sauces, which tended to be acidic. When the acid of the sauce combines with the fattiness of the meat, you have a magic combination that gives the diner great flavor and mouth feel.
If you are cooking for more than about 20 people, you cannot just multiply your ingredients up. Spices in particular may intensify in flavor more than other ingredients. Salt is the same. Start with less than what ou think you need, taste, and add more if needed. Likewise, you are not going to boil 50 gallons of water in one pot to make rice or pasta. You are going to make it in smaller quantities in a number of pots. Be sure to note these things.
Finally you must take into account your budget. If you shop at a variety of stores that specialize in the products you need, you can often save money. Check with local companies that supply produce to restaurants, poultry suppliers, sausage makers, etc. Do not be afraid to go to the source for meats, eggs, and cheeses. Sometimes buying from the farmer is significantly cheaper than the grocery store, and you know it’s fresher.
Writing up a schedule:
Scheduling is one of the trickiest parts of feast planning. If you do not do it, you are doomed to failure. Just because those guys on Top Chef can do it on the cuff, does not mean that you can. They are professionals who can keep schedules in their heads after having cooked dishes multiple times. The rest of us need something in writing. Especially as a new cook, you should make a schedule that is as detailed as possible. I still use schedules that are broken down into 15 minute increments, and I recommend that you do the same.
When you start to write out a schedule, you start at the time you want to serve and work your way back, and you do that for each individual dish. Do not leave anything out. If it is important that the lid be taken off of a dish after it has cooked for a specific period of time, put it on your schedule. Don’t forget that it is going to take time to do preparation work like chopping onions and mincing herbs. Mis-en-place has to be on the schedule as well. Writing out these types of schedules can be frustrating until you get used to doing it. You will always have multiple drafts until you get it the way you want—I still do, and I have been doing this for a long time. The most common cause of a feast being a failure is lack of scheduling.
Once you have a schedule, stick to it. Post it on the wall in the kitchen or on the refrigerator. Have a pencil or sharpie nearby so you can cross things off as they are done. This helps you and whoever is helping you to stay on track and to know what needs to be done next. It is also very satisfying to strike things off of lists, and can help keep you calm. If you get behind schedule, having everything in writing can help you see where you can perhaps make up some time elsewhere, or let you know to ask for help on something. It is always better to know than not to know. Some things will take longer than you scheduled for—that happens. Once you gain cooking experience, your time estimates will become more accurate.
Mis-en-place:
Much of your preparation can, or even must, be done in advance of cooking the actual dish. If you are merrily following the recipe without pre-prep and you get to the part where it says “add the chopped onion” and you have not chopped the onion yet, more than likely your dish will end up being overcooked if not ruined entirely. Most prep work involves chopped vegetables, nuts, and herbs, etc., grating cheese, toasting bread and making crumbs, juicing lemons, and so on. There may even be some blanching and other pre-cooking involved, like hard boiling eggs for instance. Once all your prep is done, you will gather the prepared portions, plus whatever other ingredients you need for your dish at your work station. Everything will be in its place when you start to cook the dish. Comb through your recipes and make sure that you have all the pre-prep elements listed and on your schedule.
Cooking the feast:
Put on practical and comfortable clothes and shoes. Cover your hair and put on an apron. When I am cooking at an event, I prefer to wear period clothing in the kitchen. All the criteria for practical and comfortable can be met with period garments, and it puts you in the right frame of mind. What if they call you out into the hall to congratulate you, and you are wearing a dirty T-shirt and tennis shoes?
Have a washing station set up so that utensils and pots can be washed as soon as they are used. Not only does this reduce clutter in your kitchen space, but it is more sanitary, and it enables you to use fewer pots in the course of the meal. Make sure you maintain a clean environment in your kitchen. Sweep the floors regularly. This will help eliminate slip hazards. Clean knives and utensils after use on one dish so as not to “contaminate” the next dish. Use a separate cutting board for uncooked poultry if possible. Have a white vinegar and water mixture in a spray bottle to use for wiping down surfaces regularly. Keep band-aids were people can get at them.
Treat your ingredients with respect. Do not throw them about or whack at them with a cleaver. Use proper technique when cutting your foods and carving meats. Keep ingredients separated until they are ready to go together. Have a bunch of prep bowls handy; also zip top bags for your prepped veggies. Keep your knives sharp. Make sure they are sharp when you start, and use a honer frequently while cooking. There is an old wives’ tale about there being fewer accidents with a sharp knife than with a dull one. I am not sure this is true, but you will have a cleaner cut that is easier to stitch up if your knives are sharp. Also your chopping and cutting will go a lot faster.
Follow your schedule. If you have a good schedule, it will see you through. Something that I always put in my schedules is breaks. Make sure there is time for you to sit, put your feet up, and drink water. Cooking is hard physical work. It is especially hard on your feet, so get off of them when you can.
Respect your heat sources. If you do not, you will get burned. Have hot mitts readily available. Have a fire extinguisher in the kitchen. Turn off burners and ovens once you are done with them. There is a reason that kitchens were in a separate building in period.
Have enough help. Make sure that you get commitments from people to come and help you rather than expecting there to be enough volunteers. If you work with your help in advance, they will also be familiar with the schedule and the dishes, which leads to the cooking going more smoothly. Be sure to give credit where it is due when you have help. You are not paying these people, so you do not get to scream at them—or if you do, say sorry afterwards and give them chocolate.
Coordinate with the hall steward about when things are expected to come out. Go over the menu with the hall steward and the servers. Tell them what is in the dishes, so they can answer any questions from the diners. Also, always post a menu with a list of ingredients for each dish in a place where people can see it. A lot of people have food allergies, and if they have a list to refer to, they can make sure that they will not be poisoned.
Conclusion:
As you can probably tell by now, I am big on organization and planning. These are the keys to success in most endeavors, but especially in cooking. There are times in the feast kitchen when it may appears that chaos reigns. But if it is organized chaos, you are still good to go. The only thing as important as organization is practice. Like all endeavors, experience will be a tremendous benefit. So practice. Practice on your family and friends. And most of all, have fun while you’re doing it.
Magistra Rosemounde of Mercia (copyright Micaela Burnham, 2012)
Introduction:
This class is intended to help the novice cook learn the basics for developing menus, scheduling the cooking process, preparing for cooking (called “mis-en-place” or “everything in its place”), and scheduling your process of cooking so that everything comes out on time at the right temperature. The hand-out (at the end of the article) contains eight recipes sized to serve eight people and a schedule that will have all the dishes come out at the same time. This will give you the tools to prepare a period style meal for eight people in your home. It is always best to start small and get comfortable with what you are doing before you tackle a multi-course feast for 200 at an event. I also strongly recommend that those interested in feast preparation work with the cooks doing feasts. Observing how the experts do it can be a tremendous help to learn what to do, and sometimes what not to do.
Developing Menus:
Period menus were very different than how we eat today. For one, all of the surviving menus were for wealthy nobles and Royalty. In the SCA, we are assumed to have access to the court, which means we are either noble, rich, or a friend of the King—or all of the above, but we do not eat for as long, nor do we have as many heavy dishes and wines as they did in period. An extant French royal menu of the 15th century had seven courses. (Fêtes Gourmandes p. 32, Micaela Burnham, trans.)
First Course
White hypocras (spiced white wine) with toasted bread
Second Course
Large chicken pies and hams of wild boar accompanied with seven different sauces
Third Course
Large plates of unique roasts of game meats like pheasants, partridge, rabbits, pigeons, bittern, herons, bustard, grayling goose, swans, woodcocks, birds of the river, plus other birds, kids and red deer accompanied by seven other sorts of sauces.
Fourth Course
Birds baked in pastry and a large quantity of other types of sauces
Fifth Course
Tarts, individual cream tarts, fried oranges
Sixth Course
Red hypocras with wafers and rolled wafers of other sorts
Seventh Course
Subtleties of large lions, red deer and many other beasts and birds made with sugar; a picture of the heraldic arms of the King of Hungary (the Royal guest at this banquet) and his lords that are present (presumably also done in sugar plate)
As you can see from this menu, it is far more elaborate that anything we are likely to do in the SCA. SCA feasts are usually three to four courses with multiple dishes per course, often with sauces. You will notice from the period menu that neither vegetables nor bread are mentioned, although those were certainly served with every meal, including feasts. All extant cookbooks have recipes for vegetable dishes, some of which are quite elaborate. Manchet, the round white loaves of the upper classes appears in every depiction of feasts from period sources. Also, trencher bread would have been present. Noble households had special pages to cut the flat loaves of trencher bread into two flat pieces, which were then placed on top of the plates on the table. Salads and other vegetable dishes, prepared from whatever was seasonal, would also have accompanied the feast, but these dishes were considered “ordinary,” and as a result were rarely mentioned in menus. Even in this menu you can see that the meal starts with wine and appetizers and ends with desserts and presentations dishes, not unlike the order in the modern world.
When planning your own menu, there are several things to keep in mind. Variety is important. You do not want to have a lot of the same sort of dishes, but you also do not want to have a particular ingredient or flavor that appears in a large number of the dishes. This can be a challenge in some cultures where every dish might contain cinnamon (French) or rose water (Middle-Eastern). You can compensate for this by having that ingredient on the side or in a sauce rather than in the dishes themselves. You also want a variety of textures and colors. And be sure than you include bread and vegetable dishes in your menus.
You also want to take into account the complexity of the dishes, how long they will take to prepare, and how long they will need to cook. Timing is the key to having everything come out when it is supposed to. Including a lot of dishes that are fussy and have to be done at the last minute can be a recipe for disaster. Include some dishes that can be made in advance or that need to be made in advance like pickled relishes and pickled vegetables. Pastry dough can be made a day in advance since it should be chilled before you roll it out. Most large meat dishes such as roasts of beef, pork, and venison, or whole chickens, can be made early in the day. Cook them until they are almost, but not quite to temperature, then remove them from the heat, and wrap them in foil. Then pack them into a clean dry ice chest, cover them with towels, close the lid, and do not touch them again until you are ready to serve. Your meats will be properly cooked, moist and juicy.
I am a big believer in making things from scratch, and cooking seasonal foods whenever possible. There is no reason to buy frozen pastry dough, which is expensive and tastes like cardboard when it is very easy to make pastry, particularly if you have access to a large food processor or stand mixer. Pastry dough will keep chilled for at least a week, and it can be frozen, although I do not recommend this as it can cause some separation of the fat and flour. Bread generally freezes well, although trencher breads may be the exception. Since they have to be cut through the middle into flat discs, and they are of coarser stuff that most other breads, freezing can cause fracturing when you attempt to cut them. However, it is supposed to age for a few days anyway, so you can make it 3-4 days in advance of your feast. When you buy things that are pre-made or in cans, they have had preservatives added and lack freshness. Frozen vegetables are the exception since virtually all of these are now frozen in the field when picked unless you buy “medleys,” which I do not recommend any way. Seasonal foods are less expensive as well. Don’t be afraid of sauces. Generally sauces can be made ahead, and they add tremendous amounts of flavor. In period, most meats were served plain, but with a variety of sauces, which tended to be acidic. When the acid of the sauce combines with the fattiness of the meat, you have a magic combination that gives the diner great flavor and mouth feel.
If you are cooking for more than about 20 people, you cannot just multiply your ingredients up. Spices in particular may intensify in flavor more than other ingredients. Salt is the same. Start with less than what ou think you need, taste, and add more if needed. Likewise, you are not going to boil 50 gallons of water in one pot to make rice or pasta. You are going to make it in smaller quantities in a number of pots. Be sure to note these things.
Finally you must take into account your budget. If you shop at a variety of stores that specialize in the products you need, you can often save money. Check with local companies that supply produce to restaurants, poultry suppliers, sausage makers, etc. Do not be afraid to go to the source for meats, eggs, and cheeses. Sometimes buying from the farmer is significantly cheaper than the grocery store, and you know it’s fresher.
Writing up a schedule:
Scheduling is one of the trickiest parts of feast planning. If you do not do it, you are doomed to failure. Just because those guys on Top Chef can do it on the cuff, does not mean that you can. They are professionals who can keep schedules in their heads after having cooked dishes multiple times. The rest of us need something in writing. Especially as a new cook, you should make a schedule that is as detailed as possible. I still use schedules that are broken down into 15 minute increments, and I recommend that you do the same.
When you start to write out a schedule, you start at the time you want to serve and work your way back, and you do that for each individual dish. Do not leave anything out. If it is important that the lid be taken off of a dish after it has cooked for a specific period of time, put it on your schedule. Don’t forget that it is going to take time to do preparation work like chopping onions and mincing herbs. Mis-en-place has to be on the schedule as well. Writing out these types of schedules can be frustrating until you get used to doing it. You will always have multiple drafts until you get it the way you want—I still do, and I have been doing this for a long time. The most common cause of a feast being a failure is lack of scheduling.
Once you have a schedule, stick to it. Post it on the wall in the kitchen or on the refrigerator. Have a pencil or sharpie nearby so you can cross things off as they are done. This helps you and whoever is helping you to stay on track and to know what needs to be done next. It is also very satisfying to strike things off of lists, and can help keep you calm. If you get behind schedule, having everything in writing can help you see where you can perhaps make up some time elsewhere, or let you know to ask for help on something. It is always better to know than not to know. Some things will take longer than you scheduled for—that happens. Once you gain cooking experience, your time estimates will become more accurate.
Mis-en-place:
Much of your preparation can, or even must, be done in advance of cooking the actual dish. If you are merrily following the recipe without pre-prep and you get to the part where it says “add the chopped onion” and you have not chopped the onion yet, more than likely your dish will end up being overcooked if not ruined entirely. Most prep work involves chopped vegetables, nuts, and herbs, etc., grating cheese, toasting bread and making crumbs, juicing lemons, and so on. There may even be some blanching and other pre-cooking involved, like hard boiling eggs for instance. Once all your prep is done, you will gather the prepared portions, plus whatever other ingredients you need for your dish at your work station. Everything will be in its place when you start to cook the dish. Comb through your recipes and make sure that you have all the pre-prep elements listed and on your schedule.
Cooking the feast:
Put on practical and comfortable clothes and shoes. Cover your hair and put on an apron. When I am cooking at an event, I prefer to wear period clothing in the kitchen. All the criteria for practical and comfortable can be met with period garments, and it puts you in the right frame of mind. What if they call you out into the hall to congratulate you, and you are wearing a dirty T-shirt and tennis shoes?
Have a washing station set up so that utensils and pots can be washed as soon as they are used. Not only does this reduce clutter in your kitchen space, but it is more sanitary, and it enables you to use fewer pots in the course of the meal. Make sure you maintain a clean environment in your kitchen. Sweep the floors regularly. This will help eliminate slip hazards. Clean knives and utensils after use on one dish so as not to “contaminate” the next dish. Use a separate cutting board for uncooked poultry if possible. Have a white vinegar and water mixture in a spray bottle to use for wiping down surfaces regularly. Keep band-aids were people can get at them.
Treat your ingredients with respect. Do not throw them about or whack at them with a cleaver. Use proper technique when cutting your foods and carving meats. Keep ingredients separated until they are ready to go together. Have a bunch of prep bowls handy; also zip top bags for your prepped veggies. Keep your knives sharp. Make sure they are sharp when you start, and use a honer frequently while cooking. There is an old wives’ tale about there being fewer accidents with a sharp knife than with a dull one. I am not sure this is true, but you will have a cleaner cut that is easier to stitch up if your knives are sharp. Also your chopping and cutting will go a lot faster.
Follow your schedule. If you have a good schedule, it will see you through. Something that I always put in my schedules is breaks. Make sure there is time for you to sit, put your feet up, and drink water. Cooking is hard physical work. It is especially hard on your feet, so get off of them when you can.
Respect your heat sources. If you do not, you will get burned. Have hot mitts readily available. Have a fire extinguisher in the kitchen. Turn off burners and ovens once you are done with them. There is a reason that kitchens were in a separate building in period.
Have enough help. Make sure that you get commitments from people to come and help you rather than expecting there to be enough volunteers. If you work with your help in advance, they will also be familiar with the schedule and the dishes, which leads to the cooking going more smoothly. Be sure to give credit where it is due when you have help. You are not paying these people, so you do not get to scream at them—or if you do, say sorry afterwards and give them chocolate.
Coordinate with the hall steward about when things are expected to come out. Go over the menu with the hall steward and the servers. Tell them what is in the dishes, so they can answer any questions from the diners. Also, always post a menu with a list of ingredients for each dish in a place where people can see it. A lot of people have food allergies, and if they have a list to refer to, they can make sure that they will not be poisoned.
Conclusion:
As you can probably tell by now, I am big on organization and planning. These are the keys to success in most endeavors, but especially in cooking. There are times in the feast kitchen when it may appears that chaos reigns. But if it is organized chaos, you are still good to go. The only thing as important as organization is practice. Like all endeavors, experience will be a tremendous benefit. So practice. Practice on your family and friends. And most of all, have fun while you’re doing it.
THE RECIPES
Roasted Pork Loin
3 pounds pork loin roast, trimmed of excess fat
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 bunch fresh rosemary, cut 2/3 of it into 2" branches, save the remaining for garnish
Rub the pork loin with the olive oil, then with salt and pepper. Cut small slits all over the loin and insert the rosemary barbs. Roast on a rack in a roasting pan at 350° F. When the internal temperature, measured on an instant read thermometer is slightly less than done (around 150°--160° F), remove from oven and wrap in foil. If serving immediately, let it rest 10 minutes, then remove to a carving board. Carve the roast, then place on the serving platter. Garnish.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
Cameline Sauce
1/8 loaf French baguette bread, cut into two slices, toasted and broken up
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup raisins
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 dash ground cloves
Soak the raisins and bread slices in the wine until the bread for 30 minutes. Put all the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth. Strain through a sieve, mashing to extract as much juice as possible. Heat over medium-low heat until it is just thickened. May be kept chilled over night in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature or warm slightly before serving.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
Barbe Robert (Mustard Sauce)
1 cup prepared French style grainy mustard
1/8 cup, or more, white wine vinegar
1/2 medium onion, minced fine
2 1/2 teaspoons butter
Sauté the minced onion in the butter until soft and starting to brown. Remove from heat. Stir in remaining ingredients. May be stored overnight in an airtight container, chilled.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from multiple sources
Cheese Pasty
Pastry
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup cold water
Filling
3 eggs, beaten well
5 ounces Camembert cheese (or Brie), rind removed
1/8 teaspoon saffron
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ginger
2 Tablespoons heavy cream
Pastry: Sift flour and salt together, then cut in butter until fine grains form. Add water and pull together. Chill at least 1 hour wrapped in plastic wrap. Roll out on floured surface to 1/8" thick. Place in a pie plate and make a decorative edge.
Put eggs and cheese in food processor and process until smooth. Add remaining filling ingredients and blend until mixed completely. Pour filling into pastry shell. Bake at 375° F for 35 minutes or until lightly brown. Serve warm.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
Peas Porridge
1 quart water
2 pounds frozen peas
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, minced
3/4 teaspoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
1/4 fresh sage leaf, minced
Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the minced onion and sauté until it turns golden. Carefully pour in the water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add all remaining ingredients, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook until peas are soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Cool slightly. Puree in a blender. If too thin, return to pot and cook over medium low heat, stirring occasionally, until it thickens.
Refrigerate or freeze until ready to serve. Thaw, then heat until steaming. Serve
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from To the King's Taste by Lorna J. Sass
Sauteed Mushrooms with Spices
2 pounds mixed mushrooms, combine white button mushrooms with portabellas, oyster mushrooms, etc.
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
Trim and clean the mushrooms. Cut into 1/2 inch pieces. Drop into boiling salted water and cook 5 minutes. Drain completely.
Sauté the onion in the olive oil over medium heat until very soft. Add the drained mushrooms, raise heat to high, and sauté 1 minute. Lower heat to simmer and stir in salt and all spices. Cover and simmer about 10-15 minutes or until golden brown, checking every five minutes.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy by Odile Redon et. al.
Pears Poached in Wine
2 pints red wine
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
8 pears, peeled with stems left in place
16 ounces currant jelly
In a large saucepan on medium heat, combine red wine, sugar and cinnamon; bring mixture to a boil, stirring, and simmer 2 minutes. Add pears, cover with foil, and poach for 20 minutes, or until just tender. With a slotted spoon, transfer pears to serving dish. Add currant jelly to pan and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture is slightly thickened. Pour over pears and let cool. Chill, covered loosely, until ready to serve. When ready to serve, form the pears into 2 “stacks” with the pears upright leaning against each other. Spoon some of the sauce over them. Garnish with a bit of fresh lemon zest if desired.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from multiple sources
Hypocras
2 quarts red wine
11 grams ground cinnamon
4 grams ground ginger
2 grams ground cloves
2 grams grains of paradise (available on line)
1/2 pound sugar
Mix the wine and sugar and stir until sugar is completely dissolved. Stir in the spices. Let stand 2 hours then strain through a fine meshed sieve lined in cheesecloth. Repeat, letting the wine stand in between strainings, and straining until wine is clear. Bottle.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
I recommend that you add bread to this menu. Either purchase round white loaves from your local bakery, or try baking manchet loaves. My favorite recipe for manchet is in War Fare by Bonnie Feinberg and Marian Walker available through Poison Pen Press on line. They even tell you how to mix your flours to make them more period.
THE SCHEDULE
The day before the feast:
The day of the feast:
1:00 PM Remove the Barbe Robert and Cameline Sauce from the fridge. Put the Barbe Robert in a serving bowl. Let the Cameline sauce come to room temperature.
2:00 PM Make the Pears Poached in Wine, cover according to directions, and chill.
3:00 PM Prepare the pork roast and put it in the oven. Begin checking the internal temperature with an instant read thermometer after 30 minutes, and every 10 minutes thereafter. When the internal temperature is 150° F, remove the roast from the oven and wrap well in foil. Place in a small clean cooler and cover with a towel. Close the cooler and set it aside.
3:30 PM Set up your dining table and side board. Put the serving dishes you plan to use on the side board where you want those dishes to be. Put serving utensils with them. This saves you from having to scramble for them later—remember mis-en-place. When your various items of food are done, you will be able to put them in their designated area. Put the Barbe Robert on your side board now. Also put your Hypocras into a pitcher on the side board, as well as your bread, wrapped in a clean cloth or napkins in a basket.
4:00 Take a break, have a shower and change clothes—you’ll be very busy in the 2 hours before dinner.
5:00 PM Trim and clean the mushrooms. Cut them into ½” pieces, then bag them in a zip top bag and chill.
5:20 PM Mince the onion for the mushroom dish, bag and set aside.
5:50 PM 1) Preheat the oven for the Cheese Pasty
2) Remove Pears from fridge and place on side board.
5:55 PM Put the Peas Porridge in a pot on the stove over low heat, covered. Check and stir regularly while preparing other dishes.
6:00 PM Remove the pastry from the fridge and roll it out. Place in pie plate. Prepare the filling and pour it into the shell.
6:20 PM 1) Put Cheese Pasty in the oven
2) Boil a pot of water for the mushrooms
6:25PM Parboil the mushrooms according to directions.
6:30 PM 1) Drain the mushrooms and set aside in a colander in the sink
2) Heat the oil for the onions
6:35 PM Put the onions in the hot oil and cook until very soft
6:44 PM Put the drained mushrooms in pan with onions, add spices, and cook on high 1 minute.
6:45 PM 1) Lower heat under mushrooms and cover.
2} Put Cameline Sauce in a small saucepan and place over low heat to warm
6:50 PM 1) Remove unwrapped pork roast to serving platter, garnish with rosemary sprigs and put on side board
2) Check the mushrooms and stir
6:55 PM 1) Remove Cheese Pasty from oven and place on plate on side board.
2) Put Peas Porridge in serving vessel on side board
3) Check the mushrooms and stir.
7:00 PM 1) Put the mushroom dish in its serving dish on side board
2) Put the warm Cameline Sauce in its serving bowl on the side board.
Call in your friends, and enjoy your dinner! Remember, cooking is the only art that nourishes the body as well as the soul.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
War Fare, Bonnie Feinberg and Mirium Walke, 2009, ISBN 978-0-578-06232-7 (If you are interested in baking period style breads, buy this book.)
Fêtes Gourmandes, Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert, 1998, Micaela Burnham, trans., ISBN 2-7433-0268-2
The Medieval Kitchen, Odile Redan, François Sabban, and Silvano Serventi, 1998, ISBN 0-226-70684-2
To the King’s Taste, Lorna J. Sass, 1975, ISBN 0-87099-133-7
The Medieval Cookbook, Maggie Black, 1992, ISBN 0-7141-0583-X
Food and Feast in Medieval England, P.W. Hammond, 1993, ISBN 0-7509-0992-7
The Vivendier, Terrence Scully, 1997, ISBN 0-907325815
Roasted Pork Loin
3 pounds pork loin roast, trimmed of excess fat
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 bunch fresh rosemary, cut 2/3 of it into 2" branches, save the remaining for garnish
Rub the pork loin with the olive oil, then with salt and pepper. Cut small slits all over the loin and insert the rosemary barbs. Roast on a rack in a roasting pan at 350° F. When the internal temperature, measured on an instant read thermometer is slightly less than done (around 150°--160° F), remove from oven and wrap in foil. If serving immediately, let it rest 10 minutes, then remove to a carving board. Carve the roast, then place on the serving platter. Garnish.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
Cameline Sauce
1/8 loaf French baguette bread, cut into two slices, toasted and broken up
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup raisins
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 dash ground cloves
Soak the raisins and bread slices in the wine until the bread for 30 minutes. Put all the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth. Strain through a sieve, mashing to extract as much juice as possible. Heat over medium-low heat until it is just thickened. May be kept chilled over night in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature or warm slightly before serving.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
Barbe Robert (Mustard Sauce)
1 cup prepared French style grainy mustard
1/8 cup, or more, white wine vinegar
1/2 medium onion, minced fine
2 1/2 teaspoons butter
Sauté the minced onion in the butter until soft and starting to brown. Remove from heat. Stir in remaining ingredients. May be stored overnight in an airtight container, chilled.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from multiple sources
Cheese Pasty
Pastry
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup cold water
Filling
3 eggs, beaten well
5 ounces Camembert cheese (or Brie), rind removed
1/8 teaspoon saffron
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ginger
2 Tablespoons heavy cream
Pastry: Sift flour and salt together, then cut in butter until fine grains form. Add water and pull together. Chill at least 1 hour wrapped in plastic wrap. Roll out on floured surface to 1/8" thick. Place in a pie plate and make a decorative edge.
Put eggs and cheese in food processor and process until smooth. Add remaining filling ingredients and blend until mixed completely. Pour filling into pastry shell. Bake at 375° F for 35 minutes or until lightly brown. Serve warm.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
Peas Porridge
1 quart water
2 pounds frozen peas
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, minced
3/4 teaspoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
1/4 fresh sage leaf, minced
Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the minced onion and sauté until it turns golden. Carefully pour in the water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add all remaining ingredients, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook until peas are soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Cool slightly. Puree in a blender. If too thin, return to pot and cook over medium low heat, stirring occasionally, until it thickens.
Refrigerate or freeze until ready to serve. Thaw, then heat until steaming. Serve
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from To the King's Taste by Lorna J. Sass
Sauteed Mushrooms with Spices
2 pounds mixed mushrooms, combine white button mushrooms with portabellas, oyster mushrooms, etc.
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
Trim and clean the mushrooms. Cut into 1/2 inch pieces. Drop into boiling salted water and cook 5 minutes. Drain completely.
Sauté the onion in the olive oil over medium heat until very soft. Add the drained mushrooms, raise heat to high, and sauté 1 minute. Lower heat to simmer and stir in salt and all spices. Cover and simmer about 10-15 minutes or until golden brown, checking every five minutes.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy by Odile Redon et. al.
Pears Poached in Wine
2 pints red wine
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
8 pears, peeled with stems left in place
16 ounces currant jelly
In a large saucepan on medium heat, combine red wine, sugar and cinnamon; bring mixture to a boil, stirring, and simmer 2 minutes. Add pears, cover with foil, and poach for 20 minutes, or until just tender. With a slotted spoon, transfer pears to serving dish. Add currant jelly to pan and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture is slightly thickened. Pour over pears and let cool. Chill, covered loosely, until ready to serve. When ready to serve, form the pears into 2 “stacks” with the pears upright leaning against each other. Spoon some of the sauce over them. Garnish with a bit of fresh lemon zest if desired.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from multiple sources
Hypocras
2 quarts red wine
11 grams ground cinnamon
4 grams ground ginger
2 grams ground cloves
2 grams grains of paradise (available on line)
1/2 pound sugar
Mix the wine and sugar and stir until sugar is completely dissolved. Stir in the spices. Let stand 2 hours then strain through a fine meshed sieve lined in cheesecloth. Repeat, letting the wine stand in between strainings, and straining until wine is clear. Bottle.
Servings: 8
Source: adapted from Fêtes Gourmandes by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert
I recommend that you add bread to this menu. Either purchase round white loaves from your local bakery, or try baking manchet loaves. My favorite recipe for manchet is in War Fare by Bonnie Feinberg and Marian Walker available through Poison Pen Press on line. They even tell you how to mix your flours to make them more period.
THE SCHEDULE
The day before the feast:
- Make the pastry dough, wrap in plastic wrap and chill.
- Make the Barbe Robert, then put in an airtight container and chill.
- Make the Cameline Sauce, put in an airtight container and chill
- Make the Hypocras, put in an airtight container and store at room temperature
- Make the Peas Porridge. When cool, put in large heavy zip top bags and seal. Chill.
The day of the feast:
1:00 PM Remove the Barbe Robert and Cameline Sauce from the fridge. Put the Barbe Robert in a serving bowl. Let the Cameline sauce come to room temperature.
2:00 PM Make the Pears Poached in Wine, cover according to directions, and chill.
3:00 PM Prepare the pork roast and put it in the oven. Begin checking the internal temperature with an instant read thermometer after 30 minutes, and every 10 minutes thereafter. When the internal temperature is 150° F, remove the roast from the oven and wrap well in foil. Place in a small clean cooler and cover with a towel. Close the cooler and set it aside.
3:30 PM Set up your dining table and side board. Put the serving dishes you plan to use on the side board where you want those dishes to be. Put serving utensils with them. This saves you from having to scramble for them later—remember mis-en-place. When your various items of food are done, you will be able to put them in their designated area. Put the Barbe Robert on your side board now. Also put your Hypocras into a pitcher on the side board, as well as your bread, wrapped in a clean cloth or napkins in a basket.
4:00 Take a break, have a shower and change clothes—you’ll be very busy in the 2 hours before dinner.
5:00 PM Trim and clean the mushrooms. Cut them into ½” pieces, then bag them in a zip top bag and chill.
5:20 PM Mince the onion for the mushroom dish, bag and set aside.
5:50 PM 1) Preheat the oven for the Cheese Pasty
2) Remove Pears from fridge and place on side board.
5:55 PM Put the Peas Porridge in a pot on the stove over low heat, covered. Check and stir regularly while preparing other dishes.
6:00 PM Remove the pastry from the fridge and roll it out. Place in pie plate. Prepare the filling and pour it into the shell.
6:20 PM 1) Put Cheese Pasty in the oven
2) Boil a pot of water for the mushrooms
6:25PM Parboil the mushrooms according to directions.
6:30 PM 1) Drain the mushrooms and set aside in a colander in the sink
2) Heat the oil for the onions
6:35 PM Put the onions in the hot oil and cook until very soft
6:44 PM Put the drained mushrooms in pan with onions, add spices, and cook on high 1 minute.
6:45 PM 1) Lower heat under mushrooms and cover.
2} Put Cameline Sauce in a small saucepan and place over low heat to warm
6:50 PM 1) Remove unwrapped pork roast to serving platter, garnish with rosemary sprigs and put on side board
2) Check the mushrooms and stir
6:55 PM 1) Remove Cheese Pasty from oven and place on plate on side board.
2) Put Peas Porridge in serving vessel on side board
3) Check the mushrooms and stir.
7:00 PM 1) Put the mushroom dish in its serving dish on side board
2) Put the warm Cameline Sauce in its serving bowl on the side board.
Call in your friends, and enjoy your dinner! Remember, cooking is the only art that nourishes the body as well as the soul.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
War Fare, Bonnie Feinberg and Mirium Walke, 2009, ISBN 978-0-578-06232-7 (If you are interested in baking period style breads, buy this book.)
Fêtes Gourmandes, Jean-Louis Flandrin and Carole Lambert, 1998, Micaela Burnham, trans., ISBN 2-7433-0268-2
The Medieval Kitchen, Odile Redan, François Sabban, and Silvano Serventi, 1998, ISBN 0-226-70684-2
To the King’s Taste, Lorna J. Sass, 1975, ISBN 0-87099-133-7
The Medieval Cookbook, Maggie Black, 1992, ISBN 0-7141-0583-X
Food and Feast in Medieval England, P.W. Hammond, 1993, ISBN 0-7509-0992-7
The Vivendier, Terrence Scully, 1997, ISBN 0-907325815